Saturday, February 21, 2009

Sailing the Inside Passage of Alaska

I had the cool experience of starting off in the Pribiloff Islands, at St. Paul Island, Alaska, a remote set of islands deep into the Bering Sea. I remember taking the last skiff ride off that island, and hearing the sea lions bark as we took the skiff out to the Helenka B. The day was blue sky with clouds, soon to be storm as soon as we stepped foot on the boat for our 7 day journey back down to Kodiak towing a barge, going at a slow 6 knots per hour. No sooner that we got under way did we hit 30 foot swells. I have never seen anything like it. Up on top of the world, facing a darkness and peaks and valleys everywhere, and then the next second you are down 30 feet with waves in all directions over your head. Up down, Up down. I was a shade of green, literally, and remember having to eat Ritz crackers. I got to sleep, next to roaring twin CAT 3500 series engines (on the other side) of the walls. Then I got up to be sea sick again. They made me eat buckwheat pancakes, only to have me stumble across the galley, see my green face again in the bathroom, and out to the deck to feed the fishies. As I puked I think I saw 5,000 plus birds, all kinds of seagulls, the Albatross (the huge bird with wing spans galore; Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner) and even puffins. Then to Kodiak, then a week of offloading there, then across the Gulf Alaska and where we hit more 30 foot swells the entire time. Sea sick all over again, after sea legs in Kodiak. I had sea legs for like a day there.
So we entered the inside passage up above Skagway I believe, and from there the passage was between a quarter mile wide to 2 miles wide. One of the coolest experiences I have ever seen. We saw the Cruise Ships in passing. We saw Humpback Whales playing. And at one point when the passage was at its narrowest, about a quarter mile wide, with our boat sailing right in the middle at slow speed, we saw a harbor. Then we saw 7 Killer Whales move in. We saw just their dorsel fins, then as they moved in from the right hand side of the small harbor, one whale darted immediately left, and circled in along the shore of the harbor, and then started swimming fast, as the other 6 moved in quickly, then we saw their faces and silver salmon and blood. We saw fresh salmon and a feeding frenzy. It was something I will never see ever again. Something I wish I had a video camera in the day to post on Youtube, but I will always remember it. We saw deer along the shore, lighthouses along the way where families lived in remote wilderness and lived a quiet but good life for sure. I saw the vast Alaska wilderness, that of the Tongas National Forest, and then we entered wider waterways and soon entered Vancouver area, and their islands, then on into Seattle. The Inside Passage was a journey in and of itself. Yet the ride from start to finish was memories that will be hard to forget. The sea is something else. Dangerous always, yet beautiful. From plankton that glowed in the night, to a cruise ship on the horizon at night, you passed in different directions, and then moved on to the new experiences along the way. The killer whales feeding on salmon was one of the coolest things I ever saw before my very eyes. I was that close. 50 yards away. 7 killer whales on the hunt.

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